Welting and the manufacture thereof



0, 1935. W. c. VIZARD 2,011,961

WELTING AND THE MANUFACTURE THEREOF Filed Sept. 30, 1952 INVENTOR Mil/[am G. I z'zard its ATTOR EY when Patented Aug. 2%, 1 935 UNiTED STATES PATENT orrics WELTING AND THE MANUFACTURE sneer-nor William O. Vizard, Brockton, Mass, assignor, by I mesne assignments, to Barbour Welting Com- ]g Y pany, Brockton, Mass a copartnership composed of Parley E. Barbour, Walter G. Barbour,

and Richard H. Barbour Application September 30, 1932, Serial No. 635,571

8 Claims. (Cl. 12- 146) This invention relates to welting and to the method of its manufacture. The welting of this invention is of the type characterized by a beaded edge and is adapted to be seated in the crease per edge. This width affords an ample body flange for stitching, the beaded edge of the welt lies flat and firm against the underlying shoe material, and the bead itself can be drawn snugly into the crease; Saving of stock is a point of of the shoe, only the beaded edge being exposed I after completion of the shoe. Such beaded weltmaj imp r n n th man of W ing may be embodied in several kinds of shoes, ing. Bypractising the method herein described It may be used as a calking welt'in combination two 1% inch calking welts, each having a grain with the usual Goodyear welt in Goodyearshoes faced b are p duc f l Original fillet or it may be used by itself as a calking welt in f i einch W de thuslosing y i s inch of t nailed shoes, mock welts and other types wherefillet stock as trimmed string. At the same time in a Goodyear welt is not used. In all such uses a grain Strip '1 s inch de is s a that y it is important thatthe welting be so formed be stripped into salable stitchdown welting. There I that it can be drawn snugly into the creaseleavis I10 Waste Of the grain the entire Width of ti mg only the bead exposed. It also is of iminch being preserved either in the calking welt portance' that the bead be not so bulky a t or in the stitchdown. This size is used as an give the finished shoe a heavy appearance; nd example because it is the most desired commerit is highly desirable that th out r surf e of cial product, but a proportional conservation of the bead, which becomes the exposed face in stock is ob in -in-pr i y other sizethe shoe, be provided with grain to present a In the embodiment of the invention illustrated finish comparable to that of the adjoining upper and sole or welt strip according to the kind of) shoe to which the calking welt has beenapp'lied.

The object of this invention is to provide a beaded or calking' welt'having these desirable features and to the accomplishment of this object the invention comprises the features shown by the accompanying drawing'which also illustrates its method of manufacture. The inven- .tion will be first described by reference to the drawingand then set forth in its true scope in the appended claims. In the drawing'all of the figures being in perspective,

Figure 1 shows a method of simultaneously producing two rabbeted blanks, each to be formed up into finished wltingfrom a fillet of leather having one grain face;

Fig. 2 shows one of therabbeted blanksproduced from cutting afillet in the manner shown by Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 shows a further step in preparing the blank of Fig. 2 for forming up; I

Figs. 4' and 5 show the method of forming up by which the grain face of the blank is thrown to the outer edge of the bead, and

Fig. 6 shows the finished calking welt, trimmed and molded it being understood that the forming up operations, in practice, are performed on a blank of indefinite length and follow each other closely.

It has been determined from practice that the best calking welt is substantially inch wide with a narrow edge bead having a substantially right angular base corner with a face about inch in height and finished with around d psalvage a grain-faced strip M of stitchdownwelting quality, and is split centrally through the flesh stock left by the removal of the strip M. This produces two rabbetedblanks I2 each hav- ,ihg a flesh flangelfi and an adjoining edge portionlli having a grainface'zil, an edge face 22 offull thickness and an inner shoulder 26 (see Fig. 2)., During the process of producing the rabbeted blank a short slit 2E, l/G l inch is sufficient, may be'made at the base of the inner shoulder 24 in extension of the upper face of the flange it, in order to facilitate forming-upas presently described. The flesh flange of the blank I2 is then slit, about midway its thickness, I r asshown at 28 in Fig. 3, and the lower corner of the edge portion is is beveled slightly at 29 also to assist'in the forming up operation. The

slit 28 extends into the stock of the edge portion It and nearly to its beveled corner. These operations produce-the blank of Fig. 3 that is to be formed up and then set by molding to the desired finished form, for example, as shown in Fi 6.

' In the forming up operationthe upper and lower flesh lips 30 and 32 are opened at the slit 28 this operation throwing the edge portion [8 outward and turning its grain face 20 substantially 90 so that it faces outwardly with respect to the lip 32. The bevel 29 has removed enough stock to permit turning the edge face 22 into the plane of the lip 32 (see Fig. 4). During the forming up operation the lip 30 is folded down from the portion !3, the slight slit 26 permitting an even break, and lays it back upon the. lip 32. After the lips 38 and 32 have been partly opened their inner faces are cemented with an enduring cement so that the final pressing and molding operation produces a firm two layer or laminated body flange while at the same time finishing the bead toa desired form. In this operation the shoulder 24, now the upper edge of the bead, is rounded and pressed to the desired thinness, the bead is concaved at its rear face properly to fit under the bulging upper of a shoe, the flesh bottom face is'flattened and smoothed and the grain face is squared with the bottom providing a base corner 34 that will contact firmly with the Goodyear welt or other shoe material upon which the welt rests. Before the welt leaves the molding rolls it is trimmed to final width by removing a, string 33 from the flesh base flange.

It Will be observed that the width of the blank is increased by turning an entire edge face thereof into the plane of the bottom and that the top of the head is formed from what was originally an inner shoulder. This operation has positioned the entire grain on the blank at the outer face of the head, that is, in the finished welting the outer face of the bead is the only grain covered portion. The molding operation presses the lip 36 firmly in behind the bead and at the same time irons out and consolidates the flesh bottom. This serves to stiffen the bead and to hold it in its upright position at the edge of the body flange.

It will be understood that the welting may be made from a strip one-half the width of the;

fillet It. In such case the first operation would be to rabbet the grain face as shown in Fig.2

thus producing the blank on which the operations hereinbefore described are performedi Generic claims to the calk welting herein disclosed will be found in applicants co-pendingleather, a blank having a rabbet in its grain face i and a narrow grain faced edge portion of full strip thickness adjoining said rabbet, slitting the remaining flesh flange widthwise, opening the two flesh lips thus formed, cementing their inner faces and positioning the edge face of said edge portion in the plane of and in extension of the outer face of the lower lip and simultaneously bringing the grain face of said edge portion to an outwardly facing position, turning the upper lip back upon the lower lip, and applying pressure to cause adherence and mold the bead to shape.

2. The method of making welting according to claim 1 in which a slight slit is made at the base of the inner shoulder left by said rabbet to facilitate laying the upper lip back upon the lower lip.

3. The method of making welting according to claim 1 in which the lower corner of said edge portion of the blank is beveled slightly and the widthwise slit in said flesh flange extends into the stock of said edge portion and nearly to its beveled corner, to facilitate bringing the grain faceof said edge portion to the position described.

4. The method of making beaded welting which comprises rabbeting the grained face of a strip of grain faced leather leaving a flesh flange at one margin and an edge portion of the full thickness of the strip at the other margin, splitting said flesh flange into upper and lower lips said split extending'into the stock of said edge portion, cementing the inner faces of said lips, turning said upper lip and the attached edge portion at a substantial right angle to the lower lip, then replacing said upper lip against the lower lip, and molding the welting to shape.

5. Leather calking welt and the like having a body consisting of two relatively thin ungrained flesh lips cemented together, and a bead at one edge of said body consisting of flesh stock integral with the body, said bead, being grain-faced solely upon its outer edge from the base corner upward.

6; The method of making one-piece, leather .1

calking welt. having integral grain on the outer face of its edge bead which consists in preparing a blankof Lshaped cross-section that has the width of grain required for said outer face of the bead by removing a strip from the grain side of a strand of welting leather having rectangular cross-section, and then molding said blank to a beaded edge shape while confining said grain to the outer edge of the bead.

7. Leather calking welt having a bead originally of rectangular cross-section along one edge, said head having a grain-covered outer face, a flesh top face and a body flange thinner than the bead extending from its inner face, and said originally fiat top face of the bead being convexed and its inner face concaved at the line of joinder with said body flange.

, 8. A blank for beaded, one-piece calking welt formed of grain leather and having a rabbet in its grain face along one margin leaving a thick edge portion havinggrain on itsupper face, the width of said grainface being no greater than the desired height of the bead in the finished welting and said edge portion being partially severed by a slit at; the base of the shoulder formed by said rabbet.

WILLIAM C. VIZARD. 

